‘We added something a little punk.’
Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s first season as the creative director of Chloé.
Interview by Alice Cavanagh
Photographs by Anders Edström
With many of today’s fashion houses having been established in the early to mid 20th century, it’s often the case that their founding creative directors are no longer present. Yet the might of these brands – houses like Chanel founded in 1910, Christian Dior in 1946, and Givenchy in 1952 – remains, as their legacy is left in the hands of a new generation of creatives.
As a new creative director take the reigns, all eyes are on their first collection, deemed a sign of what’s ahead. Will the entering designer offer a new interpretation of established codes, working with the logos, silhouettes and fabrics for which a brand has become known? Will they offer something more abstract, translating a pre-existing attitude into an entirely new aesthetic. However they choose to operate, their first collection is a statement of intent asserting their own values.
The designer everyone was looking to during Paris Fashion Week last month was Natacha Ramsay-Levi, debuting her vision for Parisian ready-to-wear house, Chloé. System spoke to Ramsay-Levi to discuss a series of firsts leading up to, and including the show – her first impressions, sketch, toile, opening model, and look.
Unpack Ramsay-Levis’ opening statement – in her own words – in System issue No. 10. Click to buy.