Face à face

Parfum

By Daniela Andrier

Face à face – Parfum with Daniela Andrier

Face à face – Parfum with Daniela Andrier

The blue ostrich feathers of a Prada stole. If I had to invent a perfume inspired by those feathers, I would use Heliotropin. It’s a powdery, almond-sweet, and floral smell, reminiscent of laurel flowers.

Daniela Andrier, an esteemed nose.

15/03/17

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‘The past
lives on.’

To fashion the past is never dead. Alexander Fury on history’s enduring relevance.

By Alexander Fury
Photographs by Zoë Ghertner
Styling by Jodie Barnes

 


 

The shows are done and dusted for, oh, say, another week? Fashion is fleeting, and little time passes between collections these days. There’s little time to ruminate on the season’s outings before the industry is contemplating the next.

Memory, too, is fleeting. To the extent that it’s easy to forget the true origin of corseting of a Tudor décolletage, or the heft of 19th century sleeves. Alexander Fury, a historian as well as renowned fashion critic, looks back on the references underpinning recent collections.

Read Fury on history’s enduring relevance in our archive.

13/03/17

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Face à face

Les rayures

By Julie de Libran, Sonia Rykiel

Face à face – Les rayures with Julie de Libran, Sonia Rykiel – Photograph by Angelo Pennetta

Photograph by Angelo Pennetta.

Face à face – Les rayures with Julie de Libran, Sonia Rykiel – Irene im Wald, No. 2, Bubenreuth 2012 © Juergen Teller

Irene im Wald, No. 2, Bubenreuth 2012. © Juergen Teller

“Les filles, les arbres représentent la vie, la respiration, la beauté naturelle, et la joie.
Et ces photos là sont les rayures Rykiel.”

The girls, the trees, they represent life; breathing, natural beauty, joy.
And within each image, I see the Rykiel stripes.

Julie de Libran, creative director at Sonia Rykiel.

08/03/17

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‘I was drugged by this sort of life.’

Mr Valentino on 45 years of seeing red.

By Hans Ulrich Obrist
Photographs by Zoë Ghertner
Styling by Camille Bidault-Waddington

 


 

As fashion month comes to a close, and the last of the season’s collection are shown in Paris, System revisits its interview with the éminence grise of luxury fashion, Mr. Valentino.

Read Mr. Valentino, in his own words, on beauty, his kinship with Hollywood’s A-list, and the making of his signature red.

Full interview in our archive.

06/03/17

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Face à face

into light

By Mark Borthwick

Face à face – into light with Mark Borthwick

Face à face – into light with Mark Borthwick

“… we cut through truth’s abandon, false virtues whose violent dissimulation of facts are acts of fundamental moral deceit.

We turn to love, it’s accurate elation, which turns this darkness into light.”

Words and photographs by Mark Borthwick.

Full poem here.

01/03/17

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‘I live 100% for the deal.’

Giovanni Testino, the founder of Art Partner,
finally speaks.

By Thomas Lenthal
Portrait by Mario Sorrenti

 
Giovanni Testino, the founder of Art Partner, finally speaks – Portrait by Mario Sorrenti
Photographers Mario Testino, Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, Alasdair McLellan, Mario Sorrenti, Steven Klein and Glen Luchford; stylists Joe McKenna, Camilla Nickerson, Melanie Ward and Marie Chaix; make-up artists and hair stylists Charlotte Tilbury, Didier Malige, and Lucia Pica. These are among the industry’s biggest names, allied by the fact they’re all represented by one agency: Art Partner.

While Art Partner represents the most recognised names in fashion, the man at the top, founder Giovanni Testino is famously terse, ensuring the spotlight is on those he works with. As those Art Partner represents travel between the fashion capitals to work on styling and shooting the season’s biggest shows, System revisits its conversation with the agency’s founder.

Read Testino’s first ever interview, in which he discusses the secret to keeping artists relevant, and the similarities between running a creative agency, and a telenovela.

27/02/17

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Face à face

Self/reflection

By Johnny Coca, Mulberry

Face à face – Self/reflection with Johnny Coca – Adventures in the Lea Valley by Polly Braden and David Campany, Hoxton Mini Press

Adventures in the Lea Valley by Polly Braden and David Campany, Hoxton Mini Press

Face à face – Self/reflection with Johnny Coca – Models captured in the line-up before the Spring/Summer 2017 Mulberry show

Models captured in the line-up before the Spring/Summer 2017 Mulberry show.

Light, colours, elusive, real, intuitive, bold, proud… these are all words that come to mind when I look around me today, and when I think about tomorrow.

www.mulberry.com

22/02/17

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‘This new approach might be too extreme for jewellery.’

Rem Koolhaas and Gaia Repossi on bringing revolution to Place Vendôme.

By Jonathan Wingfield
Portraits by Willy Vanderperre

 

Gaia Repossi has made a name for herself contravening established models of design and retail, eschewing the baroque embellishment of traditional haute joaillerie and its stores. It’s a way of working that has seen her work closely with similarly-minded creatives and businessmen, such as Adrian Joffe with installations in the equally idiosyncratic Dover Street Market to launch collections.

As the latest of these collections launches in Dover Street Market London
 this week, it seems apt to reflect on Repossi
’s revolutionary practice, among them the collaboration with architect Rem Koolhaas
, with whom she worked to redesign the brand’s flagship Paris store.

Read the conversation between Gaia Repossi, and Rem Koolhaas and OMA partner Ippolito Pestellini Laparelli in our archive.

20/02/17

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Face à face

Common thread

By Nataša Čagalj, Ports 1961

Face à face – Common thread with Nataša Čagalj, Ports 1961

Face à face – Common thread with Nataša Čagalj, Ports 1961

Trusting instincts. Thinking on your feet.
Meaningful coincidences.
The charm of the mundane.

15/02/17

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‘Do you find beauty in horror?’

Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director of Christian Dior Make-up, meets The Queen of Art-Gore, Cindy Sherman.

By Jerry Stafford
Photographs by Nikolas Koenig

 

Cindy Sherman’s studio, Greenwich Street, New York City.

An early Cindy Sherman contact sheet, featuring the artist’s first recorded attempt at transformation through make-up.

Cindy Sherman’s studio, Greenwich Street, New York City.

Peter Philips’ first lip brush and one of his first eyeshadow palettes, the Dior 5 Couleurs palette.

Cindy Sherman’s studio, Greenwich Street, New York City.

Pages from Peter Philips’ personal scrapbooks

Cindy Sherman’s studio, Greenwich Street, New York City.

Pages from Peter Philips’ personal scrapbooks


 
Using costumes and make-up to transform her identity, abstracting the image to such an extent that the human ‘subject’ is completely effaced, artist Cindy Sherman, is perhaps one of the most recognised names in the art world – and yet one of the least recognised faces.

With make-up as one of her primary tools, Sherman’s oeuvre is not dissimilar to the practice of make-up artist, and Creative Director of Christian Dior cosmetics, Peter Philips. System brought the two together to discuss their work, and transformative power of their preferred media.

Read the full interview in our archive.

13/02/17

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Face à face

Memory at play

By Marie Chaix

Face à face – Memory at play with Marie Chaix

An image I had on my wall as a young girl.
I remember loving the smile and the flowers.

Face à face – Memory at play with Marie Chaix

An image I produced almost 25 years later.
I always wonder about the influence your childhood memories have on the work you do as an adult – whether conscious of it or not.

08/02/17

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