System for Equipment

The Kiss

A film directed by Annemarieke van Drimmelen, styled by Camille-Bidault Waddington.

A short film celebrating 40 years of Equipment, directed by Annemarieke van Drimmelen and styled by Camille-Bidault Waddington. Shot in the Jardin de l'Observatoire, Paris.

A short film celebrating 40 years of Equipment, directed by Annemarieke van Drimmelen and styled by Camille-Bidault Waddington.
Shot in the Jardin de l’Observatoire, Paris.

17/10/16






 

‘Come into the shop, try it on, touch the fabric, and talk to somebody.’

Colette founder Sarah Andelman, and Dover Street Market boss Adrian Joffe on why bricks-and-mortar will never die.

Interview by Jonathan Wingfield, illustrations by Jean-Philippe Delhomme.

Colette and Dover Street Market are in the new System. And the new System is in Dover Street Market and Colette.
Do as Sarah Andelman says: ‘come into the shop’ and pick up issue 8 for the full feature.

Dover Street Market, London and New York
Colette, Paris

21/10/16






 

Burberry
September
2016

Burberry’s next-generation move, documented by the students of Juergen Teller.

Photographs by Julie Batteux, Hannah Gebauer, David Haeuser, Claudia Holzinger, Christoph Kipp, Marie-Julie Loerch, Mateusz von Motz, Dominik Piotrowski, Alfred Rohn, Tomasz Skibicki, Michael Ullrich, Lilly Urbat.

Shortly after its hugely polarizing see-now-buy-now announcement was made in February, Burberry gave us a call. Would System be interested in examining the company’s inner workings as it made its idea a reality and launched its first straight-to-store collection?

There was talk of ‘unprecedented access’: CEO and creative director Christopher Bailey could be interviewed on multiple occasions, and we could photograph him, the company’s offices, factories, models, staff, and, most importantly, the crucial show and store debut of the soberly titled ‘September’ collection. We quickly realized that the people best suited to chronicling an operational shift being sold as forward thinking were the people who might actually be affected by Burberry’s long-term plans. Fashion’s next generation.

So we contacted Central Saint Martins to find a promising student fashion writer. Then Juergen Teller suggested that he and 12 of his students from the Akademie der Bildenden Künste in Nuremberg share the photographic assignments.

Burberry gamely agreed to our idea. The result was the above portfolio of Juergen Teller’s students’ work, and 14 pages of dialogue between student, Hannah Rogers, and Christopher Bailey in System No. 8. Both are testament to what Christopher told Hannah: ‘It’s always worth trying something different, something new.’

Read the interview in System No. 8 – Click to buy

20/10/16







 

‘Women still don’t rule the world, but we’re more articulate.’

Miuccia Prada tells Tavi Gevinson why femininity means more than just girly motifs or womanly silhouettes.

Images of Tavi in Miu Miu and Prada, courtesy of Ms. @Tavitulle

Noah’s Ark top against my shower curtain.

After I bought myself this Miu Miu skirt.

Wandering around a hotel with my friend in my Miu Miu pyjamas.

Photo by Petra Collins of me getting ready to go out during Fashion Week last year in my Miu Miu skirt.

Toilet selfie of Prada ‘lips’ skirt (iconic!) and shoes.

In head-to-toe Prada stars at their show this past January.

In my Prada star pants & with my red Prada purse, outside the theatre where we did The Crucible, on my 20th birthday.

Trying on a vintage Prada off-the-shoulder top that I ended up buying at Collection in LA.

In heaven at the Prada outlet in Palm Springs.

Another shot in heaven at the Prada outlet in Palm Springs.

Vintage Prada top and Miu Miu choker from a few seasons ago, at a restaurant in Palm Springs.

Miu Miu choker in the middle of the desert.

Miu Miu choker.

Never happier! Prada heels by the pool.

Prada heels in fake New York on the Paramount movie lot.

In the Noah's Ark top outside the Shrine Church of St. Anthony of Padua on Houston St.

In my Miu Miu collar before going out.

In my Miu Miu princess headband.

In a Miu Miu sweater, in the bathroom on a date going very badly.

Prada heels on top of my Schiaparelli x Prada, Impossible Conversations book, and the top of a Miu Miu shoebox holding precious documents.

Prada and Miu Miu shoes with the Pirelli calendar on top of my book case.

Miu Miu by my speaker.

Pradas on the boob rug.

Old Miu Mius in my closet.

Admiring new Pradas in the back of an Uber taxi.

Still admiring new Pradas in the back of an Uber taxi.

Some old selfie standing on my toilet when I was planning an outfit (old custom Miu Miu they gave me because they read on my blog that I had the same kind of dog as the one in the print.

Tavi Gevinson: I’m always surprised by what ends up resonating with people emotionally, and you can’t really predict it or control it. You can’t decide that you’re going to get through to a group of people, and then do it for them, and get the result you want.
Miuccia Prada: I agree. I always say that I don’t have a muse. In the end, I’m not able to reason in terms of… really thinking about the result. Sometimes people think, ‘What could I do to be elegant?’ Sometimes I say, ‘Study, study’. OK, what does that mean, study? Study fashion, study movies, study literature, psychoanalysis. Be yourself, and afterwards, the problem doesn’t exist. Because there are no rules. So one should do what one feels. So, of course, I tell myself if I do a thing that has to do with people, like a collection, it’s impossible for me to do things that I don’t like. I am not able to give someone a present if I don’t like it. Say a friend of mine likes roses, but let’s say that I don’t like roses – I can’t give her something that I don’t like. I struggle with it myself. I see that mainly when I do presents; I can’t buy anything, even if I know they’ll want it more than anything, if I don’t like it. It is a weakness and it is a strength.

What’s a good present for you?
Anything. Anything. Because I like so many different things, in so many different fields. But you know, you can feel when something is not for you. I have to say that, now that I talk about it, the presents that I receive are usually always good.

Presents are hard for people with impeccable taste. I run into that problem with my friends I really admire.
I know, but I can give you the solution: give what you like. Don’t think what they like. That’s easy. Then it can’t be wrong. Because it’s a piece of yourself.

Read the full conversation between Tavi Gevinson and Miuccia Prada in System No. 8 – Click to buy

19/10/16







 

‘Quite frankly
I love Miuccia.’

Katie Grand on why Miuccia Prada is the best-dressed woman on the planet.

Films directed by Norbert Schoerner, styled by Katie Grand.

Films directed by Norbert Schoerner, styled by Katie Grand.
Films directed by Norbert Schoerner, styled by Katie Grand.
Films directed by Norbert Schoerner, styled by Katie Grand.

Quite frankly I love Miuccia – always have, always will. And if I could have anything in the world it would be her clothing and jewellery archive. She’s the best-dressed woman on the planet; no one else comes close. There’s already a lot of Prada and Miu Miu in my own archive, of course, which we used for this System shoot. Of all the pieces exhibited in Pradasphere – the 2014 travelling retrospective of definitive Prada looks from Miuccia’s personal collection – I have about 90 percent in my own. On the opening night of Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations, an exhibition at the Met in New York in 2012, I was fortunate enough to wear one of Miuccia’s own skirts from the Autumn/Winter 2000 Prada collection, which went on to feature in Pradasphere.

For System, we ended up using the shoes from my archive – a model-friendly size 40/41 – as those in the Prada archive are Miuccia’s own, and at size 37 they’re too small. For the same reason, it was my Prada footwear that featured in the shoots for the Impossible Conversations exhibition catalogue.

We tend to like the same pieces, and there’s definitely a mutual influence in what we wear. When I go to see her I’ll turn up in Prada, and sometimes Miuccia will ring the store to try on the same piece herself. It works the other way round, too: I’m often inspired to buy something she’s wearing. We’ve both been wearing the Miu Miu Autumn/ Winter 2016 pearl shearling slippers all summer (I have six pairs of them). We were wearing them when the conversation we had for System took place at Prada HQ in Milan during preparations for the Spring/Summer 2017 Miu Miu show.

Miuccia was wearing hers with trousers (because, as she tells me, ‘This is a period when I like trousers’) and we sat in her office – the famous one with the Carsten Höller escape chute – drinking sparkling water with lemon juice.

Read the full conversation between Katie Grand and Miuccia Prada in System No. 8 – Click to buy

18/10/16






 

Welcome to System Daily, the place for occasional – or perhaps, as the name suggests, even daily – exclusive content from our print issues, videos, interviews and portfolios.

17/10/16