The question we’ve been asking ourselves, answered by those who know best.
Photographs by Willy Vanderperre
Styling by Olivier Rizzo
Mittel Europe/Uniform Prada, Autumn/Winter 1994 Black wool belted military jacket with metal buttons; black wool and silk skirt; black leather boots with front zip.
Army of Me/Uniformn Miu Miu, Autumn/Winter 2006 Black wool fitted military jacket with small peplum and silk-satin trim and buttons; military green wool knickers.
Birds Of Paradise Prada, Autumn/Winter 2007 Black wool/silk degradé cloquée coat with plastic fringe paillette and feather embroidery; black wool/silk with plastic fringe paillette embroidered skirt; plastic overprinted red and black mohair hat; military green silk socks; nude, military green and black duchesse-silk sandals with bow.
Garden of Eden Miu Miu, Spring/Summer 2011 Black silk satin ‘The Garden’ printed dress with neon yellow pleated insert; black leather belt; neon green, silver and black Belle Époque shoes.
Black on Black/Jazz Miu Miu, Spring/Summer 2013 Black duchesse silk coat; long dark blue leather gloves; black fox stole; black craquelé-leather pumps.
Existentialist Prada, Autumn/Winter 1995 Black techno-wool double-breasted coat.
1950s Sorbet Miu Miu, Autumn/Winter 2007 Pale blue jacquard plastic padded-polyester corset dress with black and pink décolleté and black waistband.
1950s Shapes/In Bloom Prada, Autumn/Winter 2010 Black cirrée corset dress with white cotton ruffles and black-jet embroidered décolleté; black patent-leather pumps with white leather bows.
Depression/Seduction 1940s Prada, Autumn/Winter 2009 Red crepe-wool tailleur: Prada, Autumn/Winter 2009; brown used leather men’s belt: Prada, Spring/Summer 2007.
Drama/Innocence Miu Miu, Autumn/Winter 2011 Black felted-wool coat with white silk-crepe collar.
Men’s Trousers Tailleur Printed Prada, Resort 2015 Dark blue check print wool-mix suit with top stitched embroidery; brown cotton shirt with top stitched details; dark blue and brown patent-leather slingback shoes with top stitched details.
Men’s Trouser Tailleur Jacquard Miu Miu, Autumn/Winter 2012 Tobacco Art-Noveau patterned jacquard wool mix suit; black organza Silk shirt; pink Op-Art pattern jacquard duchesse-silk neckpiece and matching pochette; turquoise Op-Art patterned jacquard duchesse silk tie with mirror embroidery; tobacco lizard leather belt; natural lizard, white patent-leather and tobacco suede platform boots with black duchesse-silk details.
Glamour Hollywood Prada, Spring/Summer 2007 Violet duchesse silk dress; black duchesse silk turban; brown used leather men’s belt.
Glamour Europe Miu Miu, Autumn/Winter 2011 Black silk-crepe tea dress with silver paillette bird embroidery; black wool crepe mini-skirt with giant bows.
Pleated Skirt/Surrealist Bourgeoise Prada, Spring/Summer 2000 Black fine wool cardigan; white crepe silk ‘Red Lips’ printed box-pleated skirt.
Fantasy Novice Miu Miu, Spring/Summer 2008 Black silk-crepe long-sleeved short cape; black silk organza bloomers; white silk organza ruffled collar.
Novice Prada, Autumn/Winter 2008 White cotton shirt with back button fastening; white cotton bib; nude stretch knit neckpiece; black cotton macramé lace skirt with matching peplum; dark brown suede, patent-leather and leather Art-Deco cut-out shoes.
Psychedelic Love Miu Miu, Resort 2015 Emerald green suede sleeveless dress with dark blue embellishments; or- ange psychedelic-printed chiffon silk blouse with long scarf; dark blue suede lace-up sandals with mirrored heels.
Psychedelic Revolt Prada, Spring/Sumer 2014 Cobalt blue with citrus bejewelled wool coat; military green wool bustier dress; military green wool bejewelled ‘Rainbow Warrior’ skirt; emerald green sports bandeau; military green sports skirt; black with citrus bejewelled sports socks; emerald green with pink rubber and sapphire bejewelled sports sandals.
Haute Mistress/Fur Prada, Autumn/Winter 2013 & Spring/Summer 2007 Long natural black sable swing coat; black multi-layered silk chiffon with jet beads embroidered front-zip dress: Prada, Autumn/Winter 2013; black duchesse-silk pumps with Art-Deco heels: Prada, Spring/Summer 2007.
Sensual Play/Fur Miu Miu, Spring/Summer 2013 White mink coat with black tie-dye plassée; black duchesse silk bra; beige plastic pencil skirt; black craquelé-leather pumps.
Fantasy Harlequin Miu Miu, Spring/Summer 2008 Burgundy silk organza dress with ‘Harlequin’ print; red silk organza collar with ruffles.
Fantasy Nymph Prada, Spring/Summer 2008 Forest green silk organza ruffled dress with ‘Nymph’ appliqué.
Designing for me is a very complex process.
There are many ideas that I want to express in one object, very often contradictory. The creative process in Miu Miu is completely different from that of Prada. Miu Miu is not as complicated and thought out as Prada. Rather than being young, Miu Miu is immediate. Prada is very sophisticated and considered; Miu Miu is much more naïve.
The solution, when I am working on Miu Miu, has to come immediately, instinctively, spontaneously with whatever is available at the moment. If I think three times, I stop.