‘Colour, fabric, fit. In that order.’
Inside the atelier of New York-based label, Sies Marjan.
Film by Robert Nethery
There are deflated balloons and half-eaten cake in the office of Sander Lak when we meet to interview him for System No. 10. Lak is currently based in New York, where he and the atelier staff of ready-to-wear brand Sies Marjan have been working since the label launched in 2016. However the Sies Marjan team have worked together for many years, since before the brand and its NY-headquarters were established.
The scene is a familiar one in a space where the team feels like family. The predominantly female team of seamstresses, pattern-cutters, designers, and producers joined Lak after being unceremoniously laid off from label Ralph Rucci, where they all worked before the brand closed in 2014. They all came together when the partner of Rucci investor, Nancy Marks decided to launch a new label.
Over a year later, and Sies Marjan is one of fashion’s hottest new brands, with Lak – who cut his teeth working with Dries van Noten – steering its creative vision and fast-earning a reputation as a master colourist.
System interviewed Sander Lak a number of times in the run-up to his Spring/ Summer 2018 show. We also fitted Sies Marjan HQ with 12 CCTV cameras, recording the activity in the space where the collection was made, fit, and shown during New York Fashion Week. Watch the film above.
Read the interview with Lak, featuring images of the atelier staff photographed by Colin Dodgson, in System issue No. 10. Click to buy.