Angelo Flaccavento: How are you?

Silvia Venturini Fendi: I’m well. I’m with my grandchildren, so it’s quite busy. I wouldn’t really call it self-isolation. We are all here; we decided to all be together in lockdown. I have been working, because the factories are open again, but there have also been moments with very little activity, when all I could do was dream about my work.

Angelo: Has it been difficult for you to slow down like this? As creative director, you’ve been on the go for years.

Silvia: Well, the first day was quite difficult; I was very scared about it. I had mixed emotions. For so long I had dreamed about having time for myself. I’d say, ‘If only I could stay at home for 10 days, I could reorganize all of my time.’ Now, next Monday, I’m finally going back to work, and I’ve been thinking about all of the things that I wanted to do with this time but didn’t. Really, I wanted to leave myself, abandon myself, express myself; really experience this lockdown, in a way. I thought it was an interesting experience to feel boredom, which was something I used to think when I was a little girl, too, during my holiday time; afternoons without anything to do, just looking at things and daydreaming.

Angelo: Do you think this moment of crisis will have a huge impact over the system in general? How will you cope?

Silvia: In a way, I think we were all expecting a change; hoping for a change. I think we will grab this opportunity to make it happen. We all felt that the pace we were following was too fast, especially from the creative point of view. I very often felt that I put a lot of effort into collections that deserved to stay out there for more time. I had so many friends tell me, ‘I went in, but it was sold out; there wasn’t my size; there wasn’t this item.’ Probably because things were moving so fast and a capsule collection was coming in. It was something that was already in the air. Even then, we were not doing presentations for pre-collections, for instance; we were already embracing something that was calmer. But the timing of the items, the life of the object, the design – it was really too short. Sometimes another
pair of shoes is not called for, because the ones you just did were beautiful, and it’s by no means certain that the next ones you do will be as beautiful. But you had to refresh; you had to have new ideas. I think we will take this opportunity to express our vision in a different way, and to embrace something we used to have before: word of mouth. Somebody buys something, their friends see it and say, ‘I’d like to have that’, and they can still find it. Today, you have to be very fast: you have to go online immediately to get the one that you want, because you know that after two weeks it will be gone. I think it’s going to be a great opportunity to rethink the life of ideas, and not only objects.

Angelo: In this situation, do you think smaller brands might have bigger problems? In a way, because Fendi is part of a bigger conglomerate, it is safer than a smaller brand. The small brands are those in danger because they might not have the liquidity. How do you think they can survive now?

Silvia: Smaller brands are going to have many, many difficulties. It’s going to be very difficult for them, and that’s something that has to be solved on a political level. It’s something that our government should think about. But that takes time, and we know that in fashion timing is very short, and you have to react very quickly. I think they will have to change themselves, to reduce, but in this moment, perhaps people – customers and clients – will take a more careful approach to small or limited editions. I think some opportunities can arise from a moment of crisis; I want to be optimistic for them, perhaps about reducing, or concentrating
on certain types of collection, and on specific point of sales. I’ve heard about so many young designers who have had problems with big concept stores or
department stores that buy a collection and are then late with payments. For a small brand, that’s a disaster. They may be obliged to reduce, and to think that small is beautiful, and not the opposite. Slow down a bit and really be very careful about every step you take. That’s true for the small brands – but also big brands. In the end there is a question mark over everyone’s heads. This is a difficult moment, because we can’t do anything.

Angelo: You say the smaller brands might need political help. This will go out internationally, and non-Italian readers may not understand how little our government is interested in the fashion business, even though it is still one of the key sectors of the Italian economy. One would imagine that there would be a lot more coordination between the government and big brands, but this hasn’t happened. Why doesn’t it happen and what can be done?

Silvia: Big brands represent themselves; government should concentrate on and be very, very close to small brands. Besides the big international brands, there are a myriad of small family brands, especially in Italy. Big brands have big shoulders. They should stand by the side of the weak, not the strong – and they can do it. Technology has brought a redistribution of power. The young have to make the big brands scream, and maybe use different methods to work together as a team, which, in Italy, has been a difficult thing for previous generations to do. I think they should really share the experience and work together in a unified way to be heard.

Angelo: In general, are you scared of change or not?

Silvia: I’m not. I’m very excited by it; I love it. Challenges and change are what excite me. When you know something, all you can do is talk about it. When you
don’t know, you can imagine it; you can dream about it. Especially for creative people, change makes you open doors that you would never have opened otherwise. It’s an opportunity.

Angelo: Apart from this period, what has been the biggest change in your professional life of late?

Silvia: I am now at the helm of the creative studio by myself. This was quite a big issue for me. I’m still going through that transition. Fendi is going through a
change, even if there is continuity.

Angelo: Being alone, have you felt free to express who you really are and what your real vision is? In the collection you showed in February in Milan, I felt as if
I could see a creative person finding her own voice.

Silvia: Yes, good and bad. If it’s good, it’s all thanks to me; if it’s bad, it’s all my fault. You feel free, but that doesn’t mean that you feel more relaxed or happy. I really feel the responsibility with this freedom. But I take it on, totally.

Angelo: Are you one of those creative people who is always happy or one that is always thinking?

Silvia: I’m never happy; it’s a bit of a problem. That’s why I really love this time by myself, though even that’s not really true. I think creative people often love isolation. They are not the most optimistic people. I don’t know why, but I’m never happy about myself. I always think I could have done more. I feel the responsibility to do things well, because I was raised by women who were very exacting. I always had to be the one to set an example to the team, to the people who were working at Fendi. My grandmother used to say, ‘You have to be the first to arrive in the morning and the last to go home. You have to be the first one who bends down to pick up the pins on the floor, to be the example to others.’ Those kinds of things have stayed with me. I’m always thinking that I can do more and more, and better. Only happy for a few seconds. There are moments in the run-up to the show when you can feel that people are happy. Just for a moment, you know; a second later, you’re in tears… That’s thanks to Karl, who was worse than my grandmother, because like him, I immediately think, ‘On to the next one’, so the happiness evaporates immediately. Or you think, ‘It was so good that now it will be even more difficult to do better.’ You are happy to have success, but you are also unhappy and scared; you will work more and you will suffer more. After the show, you read the reviews, and start thinking, ‘I should have done something different.
They didn’t understand. I was stupid.’ You see? I am very committed.

Angelo: As a person, are you more of a pragmatist or an escapist?

Silvia: I would describe myself as both. I like to be pragmatic, and I am pragmatic because I’m the kind of woman who leads the family. I had to be pragmatic
because I couldn’t just dream; I had to act. I had my children, and I basically raised them by myself. My husband was never very good at those kinds of relationships, so it was a mess. In the end, what I achieved, I achieved by myself. But, of course, even today, at my age, and after so many years of work at Fendi, I dream about what I’ll do the day I stop, how I can bring myself back. I still have dreams, thank God. I still make projects. I dream a lot, but I’m also very, very rational.

Angelo: Do you consider yourself a rebel?

Silvia: I consider myself to be someone who is always ready to change her mind, to change her ideas. I will never rule anything out, and I will never rule anything in; I’m always open to being convinced. I’m ready for new experiences and ready to change my convictions. I am open-minded and I like to embrace new things and to challenge myself.

Angelo: Talking of which, have you thought about how you will present collections in the immediate future?

Silvia: I daydream about that. I’ll think about doing things one way, and then I’ll think that that won’t be possible. Sometimes you have ideas, and the next minute, you think they can’t happen; we can’t go there, we can’t do that. You have to be very flexible right now; you have to explore your options and be crazy enough to jump into a new adventure at the last minute, too. I’m exploring different options, according to the rules that we will have. Certainly, I want to try a new way of doing things.

Angelo: Do you think this crisis will make people want something more real or more virtual?

Silvia: Both. You asked me if I was more of a pragmatist or a dreamer; I think we are all both. We have to be pragmatic, because life is very tough, so we have to
have a clear idea about reality. But at the same time, you need imagination; that has to have a big space in our lives. I’m very attracted by the unknown. We all want to be explorers, to explore new ways and new ideas, or to listen to ourselves in a new way and feel new emotions. That’s what I think is important for all of us. People will always need to dream, especially now that things are going to be tough. We need an escape valve, an exit strategy.

Angelo: How are you dealing with deadlines that must now be completely up in the air?

Silvia: You have to be flexible; you have to know that you cannot drive the car by yourself. In a way, it’s very Roman; the world has become very Roman. Around
September, hopefully we will be working on and presenting a collection. Maybe. I don’t know. Those are the words today. It’s like that, lately. When we were in Milan for the last show, even a few days before we didn’t know if we could show, and we had to think of other options. When you have to scream, you learn how to scream.

Angelo: It’s fun you telling me that the world is becoming very Roman, because when I was preparing for this interview, I said, ‘Of course, Silvia is the best person to talk to because she’s Roman, and Rome has been around forever.’

Silvia: Exactly. Rome is the best demonstration of the human journey and humanity’s relationship with time. You can see how they have survived different situations, different times. You can witness that. If you are Roman, you have one more tool with which to react to this kind of situation.

Angelo: Do you feel like a true Roman?

Silvia: Yes. Nothing can surprise a true Roman; we have seen everything. There are so many stories about incredible people doing incredible things; who have achieved incredible goals and gone through horrible things, too. But then the beauty of it remains.

Angelo: How would you explain being Roman to someone who is not?

Silvia: When you are Roman, you are a bit snobbish. To impress a Roman person, you really need to make an effort. You are a bit spoiled. You have this approach that says nothing is important. You are relaxed; you take things as they come, nothing can affect you.

Angelo: Which is great.

Silvia: Which is great, and perhaps difficult to understand for other people. For the moment, it’s quite good.

Angelo: Has being on your own, isolated from your team for such a long time put you in a contemplative mood about your past? Has it made you nostalgic?

Silvia: I started to look at my archives, and then I got bored. I look at things from the past, but I’m also avidly thinking about the future. I want to be part of this new world. I’m probably not nostalgic because I don’t regret anything. When you have children and grandchildren you want to be part of the fight, and I’m very excited about embracing new ways. I want to see; I want to be there; I want to take an active part. So no, I’m not nostalgic. But there are things, like when I see something that reminds me of my childhood, such as when I told you how I felt bored – but even that is more sentimental than nostalgic.

Angelo: This is a side question, but you’ve mentioned your archive twice in this interview and I’m curious: do you have your archive in your house?

Silvia: This is my personal archive: clothes. I’ve been dressed in Fendi since I was four years old.

Angelo: You’ve kept it all.

Silvia: Yes, I have everything, more or less. I stole so many things from my mother! It involves a lot of work. I had to take care of everything. Especially because I have [daughters] Leonetta and Delfina and they were looking at things; they were in this and that. We were fighting for things.

Angelo: One of the most interesting aspects of the collection you showed in February was this idea of proper femininity as an expression of strength. That’s quite a revolutionary or provocative thought these days. You were suggesting that a woman dressed like a woman, with a nipped waist, can be as powerful as a woman dressed as a man. Tell me more about that.

Silvia: Femininity and feminism can go together. Today, it’s quite subversive to reclaim certain causes, and that’s why I really wanted to play with the most
obvious ones, the most banal causes, and make them relevant. As you mentioned before, women have a different approach to things, and in order to be relevant, you don’t need to forget and deny them. I didn’t want to be nostalgic; it was more for the younger generation. It was a message of hope for them. For my generation, we had to fight more, we had to take from men in order to be noticed. But today I think we can be more relaxed about this and accept our femininity. It’s a way of talking about feminine power in a personal way.

Angelo: Do you think that as a female designer you have a different approach to designing?

Silvia: Yes. I don’t have the ideal woman in mind; I think more about women. I think a male designer has an unchanging idea of a woman. I am more practical in my approach. I don’t need to think about an ideal woman, I think about myself. It’s a faster process, more direct.

Angelo: What does success mean for you? Do you think about it?

Silvia: I hate this word ‘success’. ‘You are successful.’ What does that even mean? It doesn’t bring anything to me. It’s like, ‘What is luxury?’ I don’t like those kinds of words. You have to be relevant. Success is something ephemeral for me. How can you rely on success? There’s something that Karl would always say. For instance, when we were looking at the work of a new designer who had created a good collection, he’d say, ‘Yes, but success comes and goes.’ You have to see long-term; you have to stay relevant.

Angelo: How do you do that?

Silvia: By being unhappy. If you are satisfied, the danger is that you’ll say, ‘I’ve made it.’ I am humble about that. Fashion can give you the idea that you have
achieved something, and that is dangerous. Sometimes I expressly force myself not to be in a place, not to go to a party because it could be dangerous to me
and the way I think. ‘Oh yes, you are a fantastic designer.’ No, no, no, I don’t want to play that game. You are successful when you are fulfilled and intimately happy and you know that you made every effort possible to make what you thought was good. Sometimes you are happy about something even when people don’t like it, but it was still a success for you because you really believed in what you were doing. There have been collections that I was really happy with, and the reviews were not good. But if you believe in what you have done, you can believe you have been successful.

Angelo: One thing I like about Fendi – and I think it’s down to you – is that when it was sold to LVMH and became so much bigger, it kept the authenticity of being an Italian family business, which is not a very easy balance.

Silvia: No, it’s not easy. But family is not just the people we share bones or blood with; it’s also the long-time relationships we have, the family we’ve chosen. When some of the designers who are no longer at Fendi talk about Fendi, you really feel that. When we meet, we are friends and we are more than friends, too. That makes me happy. Human relationships are so important to me. That’s when I think, ‘This is a success.’ Especially when you know how tough it can be; you may have become rivals and competitors, but you still feel the importance of friendship.

Angelo: Have you ever tempted to run away from everything?

Silvia: Yes. Lots of times.

Angelo: Have you ever explored that?

Silvia: Yes, when I was young. Not when I was older, with children. That would have been problematic.

Angelo: Are you a pessimist or an optimist, or do you just forge ahead?

Silvia: I always live with a sense of catastrophe inside my head. I’m used to second-guessing myself. If it’s not raining, I’ll still tell the children to take three
umbrellas. There’s only a drop, but you might slip. On the other hand, life is so beautiful! I am enormously enthusiastic about life, but I do like to be very cautious.

Angelo: If this conversation was put in a box to be read in 10 years, what message would you leave for the reader?

Silvia: I’d include my phone number and get them to call me, because I’ll definitely still be here.