Retail saves!
System launches Issue 17 exploring the future of shopping. Featuring cover stars, Mr Ji, founder and chairman of SKP Beijing, and José Neves, founder of Farfetch.

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In February, this year, it was reported that SKP Beijing had become the highest-performing luxury department store in the world. The news highlighted what is arguably the defining transition – both pre- and post-pandemic – for the global luxury fashion market: Chinese consumer appetite and purchasing power is now sustaining the profitability of many Western brands.

System has spent the past six months exploring the world of SKP for our cover story. This is the first time its founder and chairman Mr Ji has agreed to be interviewed, so we took full advantage and invited Patrizio Bertelli, CEO of Prada, and Jonathan Anderson, creative director of Loewe and JW Anderson, to record conversations with him, before Mr Ji led photographer Juergen Teller on a personal guided tour (remotely, of course) through SKP’s younger-and-edgier sister store, SKP-S.

Meanwhile, our second cover story features José Neves, founder of e-commerce giant Farfetch. In a wide-ranging interview, Neves discusses the realities of online success in lockdown, the convergence of virtual and physical fashion, and how the Farfetch-coined ‘Luxury New Retail’ is transforming the shopping experience. With portraits shot by Juergen Teller.

Also in System’s 300+ page issue:

When Kim Jones asked acclaimed painter Peter Doig to collaborate on this season’s Dior Men collection, the uncanny ties between the artist and Christian Dior himself slowly began to reveal themselves. Doig and Jones spoke to Jerry Stafford, with photographs on location in Zermatt by Benoît Peverelli.

Couture’s rebellious outsider Azzedine Alaïa spent his life amassing a 35,000-piece collection of fashion history, to which no one had access – until now. Fondation Azzedine Alaïa director Carla Sozzani and curator Olivier Saillard discuss Alaïa’s eye-watering collecting habits, his sense of fashion history, and the future of this unique time capsule. With photographs by Robert Polidori.

The darkness and lightness of Walter Van Beirendonck’s life in fashion, as told to Tim Blanks, with photographs and styling by Belgian image-making duo Willy Vanderperre and Olivier Rizzo.

Saint International is the model agency changing lives and expanding horizons. From his base in Kingston, Jamaica, Saint founder Deiwght Peters discusses the increased presence of Black models on catwalks, covers and campaigns, and the barriers they continue to face.

And in a further exploration of Jamaica’s fashion scene, photographer Luca Khouri and stylist Marika-Ella Ames reimagine dancehall culture.

Will the next great Japanese designer come from Coconogacco fashion school in Tokyo? System spoke to its founder Yoshikazu Yamagata about why his promising design students are taught to think differently, before asking the school’s current undergraduates, ‘What makes Coconogacco unique?’ With photographs by Takashi Homma.

Fashion critic Angelo Flaccavento in conversation with Italian duo Sunnei about their fiercely non- Milanese brand from Milan with the kindergarten-for-adults aesthetic.

How New York label Area is shaking up couture. Its founders Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk discuss elitism, club culture and what makes crystals so very special with Hans Ulrich Obrist. Photographs by Brianna Capozzi and styling by Akeem Smith.

Why Max Mara’s ongoing Steven Meisel-shot ad campaigns epitomise the Italian brand’s mantra of ‘evolution not revolution’.

The looks of the season, featuring a convergence of styles, brands and exclusive products selected from SKP Beijing and SKP-S. With photography by Leslie Zhang and styling by Lucia Liu.

The Future of Spaces.
As the world continues to face the Covid-19 crisis, System invited a group of unique voices from the worlds of art and culture to share their own thoughts and feelings about the future of spaces: architect Rem Koolhaas, filmmaker Jenn Nkiru, creative collective No Vacancy Inn, and museum director Chris Dercon.

An intimate photographic look into the life of Parisian jewellery designer Elie Top.

Giovanna Engelbert answers Loïc Prigent’s bespoke ‘Gio’ questionnaire.

An exclusive portfolio unveiling Juergen Teller’s limited-edition capsule collection for Palace Skateboards.

Plus, Kim Hastreiter on how her latest publication was created on a New York City park bench; Camille Charrière on the edge of influence; and Patrick Li’s personal take on #StopAsianHate’s past, present and future.

System Issue 17 is accompanied by ‘Counter Culture’, a Farfetch print supplement that surveys the world’s most-loved independent boutiques in 2021.

System is available exclusively at Dover Street Market in London, New York and Los Angeles and 0fr. in Paris, from June 25th. Then at quality press vendors and newsstands internationally from July 2nd.

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25/06/21

 

Episode 1
Rem Koolhaas

The guest of our debut episode is Dutch architect, urbanist, theorist, and all-round big thinker Rem Koolhaas. With his architecture firm OMA, Rem conjures up the kind of buildings that are as spectacular as they are challenging, mixing intense research and investigation with a taste for avant-garde design. In Asia, he’s delivered projects such as the monumental Beijing headquarters of China’s state broadcasting company, CCTV, while in America his work includes the intricate and multi-layered Seattle Central Library. Then there’s his 20-year collaboration with Prada, working continuously on the brand’s shops, set design and its art foundation in Milan.

More than any single building though, Rem is perhaps best known for being a kind of one-man think tank, travelling the world and bringing his experiences and encounters into new architecture, new books, new exhibitions, and above all, new ideas.

Press play to listen to Rem Koolhaas reminiscing about why his childhood was too adventurous for Lego, why he thinks the word ‘icon’ should be banished, and why the future of architecture might just be biology – and don’t forget to subscribe to Past, Present and Future to hear each new episode as soon as it drops.

Subscribe to Past, Present and Future on Apple, Google and Spotify.

Portrait by Willy Vanderperre
Podcast music by Frédéric Sanchez

23/02/2021

 

Past, Present
and Future

A podcast series from System

Past, Present and Future is a new podcast series from System magazine. In each episode, we invite the biggest names from the worlds of fashion and the arts to chat about where they’re from, where they’re currently at, and where all of us might be heading.

Subscribe to Past, Present and Future on Apple, Google and Spotify.

Podcast music by Frédéric Sanchez

23/02/2021

 

System launches new issue featuring cover stars Ibrahim Kamara and Rafael Pavarotti, photographed by Juergen Teller

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Over the past 18 months, stylist Ibrahim Kamara and photographer Rafael Pavarotti have emerged as a potent new force in fashion image-making. The duo are interviewed and present their latest work in a brand new 82-page fashion portfolio entitled ‘Your dreams are my dreams’, styled by Kamara and photographed by Pavarotti.

Also in System’s 300+ page issue:

Thebe Magugu in conversation with curator Hans Ulrich Obrist, in which the Johannesburg-based designer and 2019’s LVMH Prize winner reflects on how he uses fashion both to celebrate and interrogate the rich history of his homeland, South Africa. With photographs by Tim Elkaïm and styling by Agata Belcen.

Photographer Mark Lebon transformed a garage in 1980s London into a creative playground known as Crunch and became the catalyst for a sprawling countercultural scene that continues to influence fashion today. System explores the people and legacy of Crunch, while presenting a new portfolio of work focused on a fashion story collaboration between Lebon and stylist Amanda Harlech. With contributions and recollections from the likes of John Galliano, Nick Knight, Kim Jones, Mario Sorrenti, Jean-Baptiste Mondino, Glen Luchford, Tyrone Lebon, and many more.

Performance artist Vinson Fraley, Jr. and photographer Mario Sorrenti collaborate on a statement-making portfolio and conversation that leans beyond choreography and into abstraction, featuring the underwear of menswear designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin.

Fashion historian Olivier Saillard meets Paris couture’s discreet radical Adeline André, with photographs by Maxime Imbert and styling by Camille Bidault-Waddington.

Plus, Hung Huang on how post-lockdown shopping in China is keeping the industry afloat; Mahmoud ‘Mo’ Mfinanga on how today’s most important photographers are those who have been silenced; and Mohamed Megdoul on why gaming holds the future for fashion. And Bryanboy answers his bespoke ‘Shopping Questionnaire’ by Loïc Prigent.

System Issue 16 is accompanied by an exclusive 70-page Coach supplement, exploring the American brand’s recent collaboration with Juergen Teller featuring the 16-strong ‘Coach family’ including Kaia Gerber and Hari Nef in New York, Kate Moss and Lexi Boling in London, and Xiao Wen Ju in Shanghai, to name a few. Accompanied by Juergen Teller and Coach’s creative director Stuart Vevers in conversation.

System is available exclusively at Dover Street Market in London, New York and Los Angeles and 0fr. Bookshop in Paris, from November 30th. Then at quality press vendors and newsstands internationally from December 5th.

Click here to buy online.

30/11/20

 

System launches its biggest-ever issue, produced entirely under lockdown.

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System launches its biggest-ever issue on July 1st. Produced entirely in Covid-19 lockdown, over 50 days between April and May, the 500-page issue is a Warholian time capsule of a period that already feels strangely distant and frozen in memory.

Featuring 35 different covers – all photographed by Juergen Teller – presenting the many participants in a quarantine conversation series entitled ‘What do we talk about?’. The Zoom conversations see a broad range of fashion designers connecting with friends, colleagues, heroes and other designers to reflect on life in lockdown and their collective future in fashion.

Participants include Virgil Abloh, Kim Jones, Victoria Beckham, Telfar Clemens, Silvia Fendi, Rick Owens, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Jonathan Anderson, Bella Hadid, Charles Jeffrey, Tommy Hilfiger, Daniel Lee, Matthew Williams, Gwendoline Christie, Andreas Kronthaler, Lotta Volkova, and many more.

The issue also presents ‘What are we looking at?’, a 300-page document assembling 17 exclusive fashion portfolios, each one orchestrated by a leading industry art director, including the likes of Marc Ascoli, M/M (Paris), Fabien Baron, Ferdinando Verderi, Ezra Petronio, Dennis Freedman, David James, Veronica Ditting, Christopher Simmonds, Patrick Li, Franck Durand, Lee Swillingham, Ben Kelway, and more.

System Issue 15 is accompanied by an exclusive 120-page CHANEL supplement, exploring the House’s unique Métiers d’art. Featuring Pharrell Williams in the ateliers of Lesage, Lemarié and Maison Michel, photographed by Juergen Teller. Plus, CHANEL’s president of fashion Bruno Pavlovsky in conversation with Loïc Prigent, Virginie Viard, and with illustrations by Jean-Philippe Delhomme.

System is available exclusively at Dover Street Market London, Shreeji News in London, 0fr. Bookstore in Paris and online at IDEA Books from June 26, then at quality press vendors and newsstands internationally from July 1.

Click here to buy online.

25/06/20

 

System launches new issue featuring cover star
Yohji Yamamoto interviewed by Rick Owens